Digital Wanderer

We live as long as we fly

Latvia - Bike trip to Daugavas Loki park


Yesterday at 14:00 I headed out to the Daugavas Loki nature park. I can't translate it — my memory is failing me. Loki is when a river loops, and Daugava is Daugava even in Africa (in Russia it's the Western Dvina, though,  Russians have big egos, they're allowed to). The park is located about 25 km from Daugavpils, where I live. I took pictures of whatever was there, so don't judge me, we're not in Norway where absolutely every spot is a masterpiece of natural beauty.

Detailed map of the area around Daugavpils, Latvia, with roads, settlements, and a winding river. A red line with arrows indicates a long route passing through fields and forests, past villages, and crossing the river several times.
Map of the trip

 

A building materials store "BŪVNIECĪBAS NAMS" with a red sign, located across the road, with stacks of packaged construction materials and parked cars visible in front of it under a cloudy sky.
Turns out, they're moving hardware stores out of town here too now

A black stone monument in the forest with an engraving in Latvian and Russian and an image of two colliding airplanes. The inscription is dedicated to the first bomber ramming in the history of the Great Patriotic War, performed by the crew of Lieutenant P. S. Igashov.
No comment

 

A large Mi-24 military helicopter in green-spotted camouflage with an open side door sits on a green field under a partly cloudy sky. To its left stands a woman in a pink jacket, looking at the helicopter.
This is how our people have fun. Dragging home any random crap they can find.

A white fluffy dog with its mouth wide open barks while standing behind a metal wire mesh fence against the background of a wooden fence.
And they force animals to guard this giant junk, the monsters

A camouflage-colored helicopter has landed in a clearing near country houses, where several cars and a group of people are also present.
But if that's the dog's kennel (on the right), then she gets paid adequately for the job

 

A silver polygonal stele with a coat of arms of a shield and crossed swords on top. Below are a round bas-relief of a man and an empty rectangular plaque.
A police major died here in 1970 while in the line of duty

 

Curiously enough, the monument is standing right where it was, and the inscription isn't even in the state language . We don't have fascism here, see!

A two-story wooden house with a red roof stands on a green meadow next to a small pond reflecting the building. In the foreground on the left, a small stone bridge with decorative lanterns is visible under a cloudy sky with some clearings.
People live well in the countryside

A dirt road passes over a small bridge with stone railings and decorative lanterns across a narrow body of water. In the background, a green field under a cloudy sky and the edge of a wooden house with a red roof are visible.
Since they can build a decorative bridge over a pond they dug themselves

A large outdoor information stand with a detailed tourist map of the Latvian Naujene parish, showing routes, services, and attractions of the region. Below the map are a legend and advertisement blocks.
Here are those very loki, I'm currently in Naujene

A Catholic church made of multi-colored rubble stone with two symmetrical towers and crosses, with an asphalt path leading to the entrance flanked by flower beds.
Some random baznica, in other words a church

A white memorial cross with a black plaque, set in tall grass against a backdrop of thick green trees. The inscription on the plaque in Latvian and Polish is dedicated to the memory of Polish soldiers who died for the independence of Latvia in 1919–1920.
The plaque says that the Poles gave their lives for Latvia's independence in 1919-1920.

This cross is clearly a modern addition - since there's no Russian translation.


And here's the loks itself. I apologize, but there will be way  too many views of the Daugava coming up.

A wooden boat moored in a quiet backwater near a riverbank overgrown with tall grass. On the opposite bank, a dense green forest stretches out under a cloudy sky.
The little boat is new, though

I was too lazy to go back the same way I came, so like a mega-biker I forged straight ahead along the shore, where trails used to be - back in prehistoric times. As a result, the grass in some places was like this:

Thick bright green grass in the foreground and dense thickets of shrubs in the background.
Almost a point-of-view shot

A bicycle stands in tall green grass on the shore of a body of water with floating algae, a wooded shore is visible in the distance.
And this is how the bike looked in it

 

Curiously, even through such brutal grass (didn't know "ordinary grass" could reach such heights) you can more or less ride a bike.

A wide, calm river with green grassy banks under a cloudy sky that reflects in the water. In the distance, a dense green forest is visible surrounding the riverbed.
Here we go again

A bicycle is partially hidden in a thicket of tall grass on the edge of a swampy area with trees on the horizon under a bright sky.
Sometimes it even got like this

 

For starters, I decided to pay a visit to the ruins of Dinaburg Castle, which is where my city originated from, as well as the German settlement of the local area. At school they taught us it's located 19 km away - turns out they didn't lie.

A wooden staircase with a railing on the left goes up a slope densely overgrown with green forest. Sunlight breaks through the foliage.
The walking trail to the ruins

As soon as I arrived, a girl ran up and offered to buy a ticket for 0.4 Ls, which is $0.80. I didn't refuse such spare change, to make a contribution to the development of tourism in my homeland. Curiously, there was a tour bus and a couple of cars in the parking lot, meaning I wasn't the only maniac out in the freezing cold checking out sights of questionable interest. Truth be told, there's not much to look at on the route, and it takes 15 minutes tops, but it works for local history purposes, it's a short ride there.

A dense green forest with a small stream flowing through thickets and fallen trees. Sunlight shines through the leaves, illuminating the forest floor and vegetation.
Sigh, I really need a proper camera


There they are, the ruins. It's embarrassing to even call them ruins.

A stone miniature of a medieval castle with a tall round tower and red tiled roofs, placed on a hill by the river against a forested landscape.
At least they made a reconstruction, good for them

A miniature stone castle with a red roof stands on an earthen mound near the riverbank, surrounded by stones and chain fences. In the background — a wide river, thick forest, and hills under a cloudy sky.
They even put up little posts around it to make it look legit

Wet muddy ground strewn with rounded stones of various sizes, covered with green algae. Wet mud, sparse dry blades of grass, and twigs are visible among the stones, illuminated by bright sunlight.
Like a proper weirdo, I started jumping across the coastal rocks 

A swampy riverbank covered in bright green slime and reeds, with a wooded hill on the opposite side under a cloudy sky.
A gorgeously swamped-up Daugava

A black signpost with two white stick figures in the foreground points right to a wide river, behind which stretches a gently sloping wooded shore under a cloudy sky with patches of blue.
Somebody thought they were funny

A close-up of a natural surface where light beige patches of dry, tangled plant fibers alternate with dark, moist green-brown patches of moss or algae, lit by the sun with long shadows.
Micro-frogs were sitting on the rocks, and once there was even a micro-lizard, but nobody wanted to pose

A close-up of the water surface dotted with bright green and yellowish algae. Thin plant stems emerge from the water, reflecting in the dark ripples.
Oh, my tin-can life

Water surface with ripples and glare, through which sunken algae and dark objects are visible, illuminated by yellow-green bands of light.
To the swamp with it

 

On the bright side, there's a rest area there, even with a bunch of benches and  a grill.


A rock garden, Teutonic style

A circular stone structure resembling a labyrinth or hearth is laid out on the green grass by the river. In the distance, trees and hills are visible under a cloudy sky, and in the foreground on the left, the edge of a wooden bench can be seen.
I don't know what this is. A fire pit, maybe?

Down by the river I picked up a plastic bottle and threw it into the trash can thoughtfully placed at the rest area. By the way, that's where I first saw the mysterious sign Privatipašums, meaning Private Property. Why put up signs like that in places specifically designed for public access is beyond my understanding.

Three white wooden crosses stand on a green field, the central one taller than the side ones, against the backdrop of a dense forest. On the right, a person is walking towards a wooden observation deck.
Little crosses in honor of a former cemetery

There used to be a cemetery on this spot, but during preparations for building a hydroelectric power station, it was first "ravaged" (in the terminology of the info posters) and then reburied. These fanatics are going to clutter the whole earth with crosses soon — people do keep dying for now, and everyone needs a cross, even those who haven't done anything useful their entire lives.
Ironically, the power station project was buried too — because hey, we gotta protect nature. I'm all for it, only the green psychos now want to bury the project for a new nuclear plant in Lithuania as well. And where are we supposed to get electricity from? From the frogs we have here in endless numbers?


How are the ruins of a cowshed any worse than the ruins of a castle? Here, some stuff actually survived

A high wall made of old concrete blocks with graffiti stands against a backdrop of sand mounds, sparse greenery, and a forest under a cloudy sky.
Rode out to god knows where

There are Vlads everywhere now, my name has become mainstream. Not like the old days — how many people do you know named Vladislav over the age of 25?
But then there was an interesting story. I rode off to who knows where, because I despise paper maps, and I can't be bothered buying a GPS for the sake of rare bike rides. So a nasty surprise was waiting for me - I ran dead  into a boom barrier with the sign: Privatipašums, Trespassers W. But since I'm not the most ardent supporter of capitalism, but am in a way a supporter of spontaneous, ill-advised actions, I gave zero damns about the sign and boldly walked around the barrier. It's a good thing the pine tree on the side  hasn't had time to grow yet. The decision turned out to be the right one -  the brazen capitalists grabbed one of the best slices of the Daugava for themselves, and even landscaped it.

Under a cloudy sky, a landscape stretches out with a forest on the horizon, a green meadow dotted with large boulders, a dirt road, and a bush of bright orange flowers in the foreground.
They scattered stones and idols around, though I somehow forgot to take pictures of the latter

A green field dotted with large boulders and young trees, against the background of a dense coniferous forest under a cloudy sky.
There are no buildings on the plot, by the way. I wish I lived like that!

A wide river under a gloomy sky, with a dense forest on the opposite bank. Sun glare is visible on the water, and on the sides of the frame — green thickets and tree branches.
The view is very pleasant, there are even murmuring rapids, which is a rarity on the Daugava


Here's one, not an idol though, but a sailor

 

Then, in my usual fashion, I pushed along the upper bank through the woods, and a barely passable path led me to this marvel.

A wooden frame of an open gazebo made of rough logs against a forest backdrop under a cloudy sky.
A gazebo for meditating under the moon, totally

A forest pond with a small wooden footbridge by the shore, surrounded by green grass and a dense pine forest in the background under a bright sky.
Right on the shore, as it should be

A forest lake surrounded by a dense coniferous-deciduous forest under a cloudy sky. The sky and trees reflect in the calm surface of the water, which is partially covered in duckweed and aquatic vegetation.
Ooo, the bourgeoisie have settled in nicely

A large gray boulder lies on the shore of a calm body of water. Beyond the green meadow, a strip of forest is visible under a cloudy sky.
These folks have good taste — there's even a weeping stone

I mean the painting about Alyonushka, yeah. And also O'Toole in "The Goblin Reservation" had a sitting stone, if that rings a bell for anyone. The novel is absolutely brilliant, by the way.

A round red 'No Trespassing' sign with a crossed-out human silhouette is attached to a pine trunk. Around it is a forest of pines and birches with lush green grass on the ground; a bright sky shines through the tree crowns.
Rode past the sign — don't have to expect a load of salt in the butt anymore


And this is a picnic spot for everyone

View of the river surface with ripples and reflections of the cloudy sky. On the far bank, a dense green forest stretches out, and several dark objects stick out of the water.
A perspective for frogs

Having struggled back to the asphalt road, I decided to call it a day. But after climbing back up the hill where I'd set a new top speed record - 57 km/h, I saw another tourist sign, of which we have plenty, courtesy of the European Union. The sign teased a certain observation tower and a hiking trail taking a whole hour, and I couldn't resist, even though I was already pretty wiped out. The worst part was that I had to ride 9 kilometers on a washboard gravel road — the great enemy of the cyclist.

View of the river surface with ripples and reflections of the cloudy sky. On the far bank, a dense green forest stretches out, and several dark objects stick out of the water.
A perspective from the point of view of frogs

A panoramic view from above of a wide river winding through dense forests and green hills. An overcast sky, light breaking through and reflecting on the water surface.
And giants

As you can see, I made it to the tower, right in the middle of the dirt road, too. There was another "Privatipašums" sign there, this time carrying at least some weight: it stood under a "Brick" sign (No Entry), which I can boldly call that since I don't have a driver's license. Otherwise my traffic rules instructor would probably turn over in his grave. Under the tower, by the way, ignoring the sign and  bundling up in jackets, young dudes and broads were drinking beer.

A close-up of two sheep standing in a grassy field and looking straight at the viewer. A thick forest borders the field under a cloudy sky.
Man's best friends wouldn't eat the apples, but weren't in a hurry to leave either

A very close-up of the muzzle of a sheep with light wool, looking straight at the viewer. The animal's nose takes up most of the center of the frame against a blurred field and blue sky.
They liked the camera more than the apples, apparently — they sniffed it with pleasure

 

Eventually, I also reached the promised Markova trail, but the cashier's booth was closed since it was past 6 o'clock.  So I had to hike the trail as a freeloader.

A stone memorial sign with the inscription 'MARKOVAS PILSKALNS' and a relief image, set in a clearing among a pine forest on a sunny day.
Deceived again — the sign says "Markovo hillfort". There's no hillfort in sight

We're pretty bad at throwing dust in people's eyes — the Japanese would have built a dedicated hillfort for tourists  and written "Date of creation unknown". Given their diligence, they probably would have actually erased the date from all the documents, too.

A narrow stream with dark water flows among large moss-covered stones in a dense forest. Intertwined tree branches, bushes, and green foliage are visible all around.
In places the trail was a bit gloomy, it even gave me the creeps

A view from a hill onto a wide river valley bathed in sunlight. The forested banks of the river are dotted with several houses, and a green grassy slope stretches out in the foreground.
The end point of the route, or maybe not, who knows

 

In any case, there was another "Privatipašums" sign here again, so I didn't go any further. I had no time, my camera battery died, and most importantly — I could barely move my legs, and I still had 30 km to go.

I rode back like a hardcore slacker (in biker terminology), taking breaks every 5 km. The main problem was that it was cold and very windy the entire trip. On the highway I can ride 30 km/h, including small hills, and on big ones my speed drops to 25-20 km/h. But here I barely managed to roll along at 15-20 km/h, on hills even 10. Fortunately, I did make it home, snacking on apples from a free orchard along the way.
I got back home at 21:00. In total, I rode 75 km in 7 hours, and walked about 4 kilometers over heavily rough terrain. The average speed according to the bike computer was 12 km/h, but you can't trust it — I kept forgetting to turn it off during rest stops and hiking trails.

Overall it was great, but next time I'll take the train to my destination if possible — it got way too cold and windy, and the highway is scary with the cars, even though they give me a wide berth.