Digital Wanderer

We live as long as we fly

Jordan — 8, the castle and city of Al Karak

Instead of bypassing the castle hill and the center, we accidentally plunged right into the thick of it. A motley, noisy crowd of people and cars, the clingy kids again, and the heavily polluted air, all piled on top of the exhaustion from a one-and-a-half-kilometer climb, slightly fogging our minds. We had almost ridden all the way down from the center, and from the edge of the mountain, we could see the place where our hotel was supposed to be.

However, my restlessness flared up again, and I gently but persistently talked Alexander into visiting the ruins, the city center, and all that anyway — after all, it would be stupid to just ride through Jordan on the highway without seeing a single tourist attraction or city. No matter how skeptical I am of hyped-up places, many of them became that way for a reason. Some people are satisfied with nature, some with cities, and others are perfectly happy with a beach, but I don't see any artificial reasons to limit myself to certain beauties of life if there's a chance to taste them all. Especially since life usually flows in a rather predictable and tedious way, and the chance to break out of the routine doesn't come along very often.

We headed back to the center and found the castle ruins. Although according to the schedule they closed around four and we arrived later, a little guy running by said we still had an hour. They charged us just a dinar per person for entry. By the gates stood a policeman (or a guard?), who motioned to us that we shouldn't drag our bikes inside, but rather leave them right there, and he'd keep an eye on them. By that day we had already started getting somewhat used to the friendliness, the low crime rate, and the locals' lack of fuss over formalities, so we decided to just ditch our iron steeds right there. It seems to me that in some European  countries, out of those that love law and order, a tourist attraction worker wouldn't take the risk of watching over someone else's stuff for fear of a lawsuit or other problems.

Information board about Karak castle with a detailed fortress plan, cross-section drawings, and a historical description in English and Arabic.
PB210194

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Jordan — 7, day 3, ascent to Karak

A smiling man in a bright green cycling jersey and helmet stands next to his touring bicycle with panniers against the background of an adobe wall with two wooden doors and a pergola covered in greenery.

The next day we got up whenever we managed to, and were already set to hit the road in search of a shop, when our old buddy Malak dropped by. He said we were going to his place for breakfast (along with the Aussie). Well, breakfast it is. The breakfast was modest: bread with hummus, and maybe a few veggies.

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Jordan — 6, day 2, dinner in Al Mazraa

Rybakov, of course, fell into a stupor when we were so abruptly seated, poured tea, and told what's what around here. Until the very sunset, he didn't really understand what was going on, and experienced mixed feelings. However, I didn't just casually stop at this little house with the sign "Al Numeira". The thing is, I remembered reading in the profile of our host William that this is the very NGO (non-governmental organization) he is involved in, and he had even sent me the phone numbers of his friends from there, which, unfortunately, I hadn't written down. This organization is engaged in introducing eco-consciousness into the minds of the region's residents, and educates them on how to properly conserve water and electricity, and grow vegetables and fruits with minimal expenses.

A parabolic solar concentrator on a blue metal stand stands on a dirt patch in front of a tall fence made of dry reed stems.

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Jordan — 5, day two, from the Dead Sea to Al-Mazraa

The previous part ended with us finally getting ready, around one in the afternoon, to start our journey for real, rather than just warming up like at the border. Ahead of us lay fifty kilometers, cut short in advance thanks to  the courtesy of Mr. Ragai. We, however, didn't even manage to start moving before a guy of suspiciously European appearance approached us. Tracing his trajectory back, we spotted a massive bike trailer full of mountain bikes, about 15 or 20 of them, no less. I must say that up to this point we  had seen bicycles in Jordan exactly once, so such an influx of bikes was a pleasant surprise.

 

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